Friday, September 16, 2011

Alterations

After I did a sewing machine lesson, last week, I started to teach basic alterations.

I think I chose something too hard for the first one, though. I chose taking the the center back of men's pants.

The reason it was too hard is that there is not a formula for tapering the new seam into the crotch part of the seam, which remains the same. There was no way for me to show them exactly how to do it, without just drawing the line myself.

I also originally wanted to show them some online videos of the alteration, but they all seem to assume that the pants will be pinned perfectly, and that you aren't taking them in a great deal or trying to make them fit a different body shape (men's pants on women for example).

In our theatre, because of the lack of time for fittings, and the fact that many times the designer pins the alteration, the pins are not exactly centered on the seam. But of course, you want the seam to be centered on the butt.

So basically you have to measure the entire amount pinned out, divide by two, and re-mark the amount centered. It is a little tedious, and because of my experience I do not always do this exactly, I just sort of guess at the curve. And I will be correct, because I have done it a million times. So have the women who have made the video, plus they have the advantage of pinning themselves in a non-hurried manner. The designer and I are often fitting people in 15-30 minute increments for 12-14 hours straight.

My students, though, they need a method. and the method can't be eyeballing, which is what I do.

In retrospect, I think I should have taught this to the advanced students only, and then have them mark the alterations for the others to sew. Then, after you have sewed a couple dozen pants like this, you will being to know the curve.

I don't know- still frustrated.

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